Uniform Regulations for the 44th Indiana Volunteer Infantry
Our membership consists of many individuals from many different walks of life, but we all have that one common bond, a love of history and the desire to share our knowledge of the past with others. Education and Preservation are our main goals as an organization, we feel that our efforts are best needed and appreciated close to home.
Most of our events are within just 2 or 3 hours drive from Ft. Wayne, IN however we do attend one National event a year as are the requirements of the First Federal Division.
2)
Haversack;
3)Shirt;
4)Socks;
III. Once the above items have been acquired, add or upgrade your uniform and equipment as you see fit. Consider these items (in no particular order):
1)Knapsack;
2)Frock coat;
3)Shell jacket;
4)The Dress (“Hardee” or “Army”) hat;
5)Overcoat (Greatcoat);
6)Pocket watch;
7)Drawers;
8)Suspenders;
9)Vest.
10)Wool Blanket
11)Rubber blanket/Ground cloth/Gum blanket/Poncho
12)Shelter half or Shelter tent
For Non-Commissioned Officers:
For a Corporal, the uniform and equipment requirements are the same as described above for the private, except that the corporal wears corporal stripes (two stripes) on each sleeve of the coat (Sack, Frock or Shell). The regulations permitted a dark blue stripe along the outside seam of the trousers, but we do not currently recommend the use of this.
For a Sergeant, the uniform and equipment requirements are the same as described above for the private, except that the sergeant wears sergeant stripes (three stripes) on each sleeve of the coat (Sack, Frock or Shell). The regulations permitted a dark blue stripe along the outside seam of the trousers, but we do not currently recommend the use of this.
For Commissioned Officers:
For Lieutenants and the Captain, the uniform is the same except that officers wear the appropriate officer’s insignia of rank on each shoulder of their coat, and their trousers are dark blue. Light blue piping was worn along the outside seam. The officers also wear a field officers sash, a sword belt and foot officer’s sword (it is recommended that it have a metal scabbard). As optional gear, the officers may carry a revolver, a holster, and the cap and cartridge boxes for the revolver. In addition, the captain is authorized to have a full shelter tent (that is, both halves).
Comments on General Appearance
The 44th Indiana was part of the Army of the Cumberland for most of its active history. Since many of the officers in this army were West Point trained, military discipline was well maintained and the soldiers were expected to present a “soldierly appearance”. The Army of the Tennessee was known neither to be strong on discipline nor military style (often wearing civilian clothing along with the regular uniform parts). General William B. Hazen’s opinion of the distinctions between the two armies was that “as to discipline, instruction and administration the Army of the Cumberland was so far superior as scarcely to admit of comparison.” At the same time, the Army of the Cumberland was not as “spit-and-polish” as the Army of the Potomac.
Our standard impression is of the Western soldier in the Army of the Cumberland, from mid 1863 to late 1864. We strive to portray the common soldier in terms of what the individual wore and carried. The only exception we want to make to this general rule is that if we can document (in writing or by photograph) that the original 44th Indiana wore it, carried it, used it, or did it, then we will allow it (within the bounds of civil decency).
For sources of pictures of the 44th Indiana, look at pages 36 and 39 of The Image of War: 1861-1865, Volume V, pages 32-33 and pages 68-69 of They Who Fought Here, and pages 58 and 89 of Mathew Brady’s Illustrated History of the Civil War. In some of those references, the designation of the unit is incorrect, they are all pictures of the 44th Indiana.
The average soldier rarely wore jewelry, with the exception of a plain wedding band, if even that. Therefore, ear rings or other obvious body-piercing jewelry are not allowed. Wristwatches did not exist at the time of the Civil War, therefore NO WRISTWATCHES are allowed.
Most soldiers did not wear spectacles. If you can, go without or wear contact lenses. If you need to wear glasses, you need to purchase period frames and have your optometrist fit you with your prescription. Modern glasses are not acceptable.
Buttonholes should be hand-sewn. At a minimum, the ones that can be seen should be hand-sewn, and you are strongly encouraged to have all the buttonholes hand-sewn.
As noted previously, the uniform should be maintained in a soldierly appearance. That is to say, the clothing should be aired out and the dirt brushed off and shaken out. It is not necessary to wash the uniform, but the mud should be removed to prevent the deterioration of the material. The trousers should never be creased. When patching the uniform is required, it should be done from the inside so that the patch is minimally visible.
Canteen and Haversack straps should be adjusted so that the items hang properly. These items were carried almost everywhere the soldier went and he did not want them in the way or slapping him on his backside or the back of his legs. The haversack strap should be adjusted so that the bottom of the haversack rides from four to eight inches below the waste belt. The canteen rides about midway on the haversack. Both are worn outside the waist belt. In each case the strap could be folded (or cut) and sewn or it could be knotted.
For the Cartridge box, the shoulder sling should be adjusted so that the cartridge box rides on the hip with the top of the box at the height of the bottom of the waist belt. Remember, the waist belt was worn at the level of the waist (belt plate covering the navel). The sling is worn under the waist belt.
STANDARDS and OBSERVATIONS on the UNIFORM
UNIFORMS/CLOTHING
Coats and Jackets
Sack Coat
The standard coat is the 4-button Sack Coat, also known as the Fatigue Blouse. The collar was about two and a half inches wide and folded down, and, based on the maker, seems to have varied slightly in style. That is to say, most are rounded, but some collars are squared. In addition, from looking at pictures, some collars appear to meet in the front, while others leave a small gap. The Sack Coat was originally intended to be worn when the soldier was on a work detail. However, it was more comfortable than the Frock Coat and very quickly became the coat of choice. Further, from the government’s point of view, it was cheaper to purchase. The color seems to range from medium to dark blue, as the wool was dyed with indigo dye. The coat was 100% wool flannel. Those coats made at the Schuylkill Arsenal were completely hand-sewn. The Contract coats had varying amounts of machine sewing. Almost all coats had an inside breast pocket that was roughly kidney-shaped. The buttonholes were almost always hand-sewn (there is some evidence that some buttonholes were machine sewn, but it was not very common, and remember we want to appear as the average, common soldier appeared). The coats were made lined or unlined. Some current research indicates these were made in approximately equal numbers, and other research shows that lined coats were made two or three times as much as the unlined ones. If lined, the body was lined with lightweight wool flannel or a jean cloth, with the sleeves lined with muslin. The buttons were the medium size eagle button.
Frock Coat
The Frock coat was the characteristic formal coat before and during the Civil War both for civilians and the military. In the military, it was a dark blue wool single-breasted garment with a body and a skirt. The body was closed with 9 medium size eagle buttons, with two small eagle buttons on each cuff. The skirt extending about two-thirds of the way from the waste to the knee and in the back was gathered evenly in a series of short pleats. It had a standing collar of about 1.5 inches and piping (light blue for infantry) at the base of the collar and in an inverted “V” shape on the cuffs. While it was considered the dress coat of the military, there is pictorial evidence that it was worn as a field coat, but it is rare to see a picture of an enlisted man of the 44th Indiana in a frock coat.
Shell Jacket
The jacket was a dark blue wool single-breasted, snug-fitting garment, closed with 9 small size eagle buttons, with two small eagle buttons on each cuff. The jacket reached about an inch below the waist and was cut straight around. There was an open standing collar about 1.5 inches high and usually there was no piping anywhere on the jacket.
State Jacket
Current research indicates that Indiana, like Illinois, Ohio and Michigan, issued a jacket, sometimes called a “roundabout”, at the beginning of the war. The jacket was made of either dark blue or gray wool, was single-breasted, and closed with 9 buttons (they may or may not have been eagle buttons). The jacket reached a little below the waist and was cut straight around like the shell jacket. There was an open standing collar about 1.5 inches high, and there were cloth shoulder straps or epaulets.
Preferred – Sack Coat
Acceptable – Frock Coat or Shell Jacket;
Acceptable, but not recommended – State Jacket (since used only for a very early war impression)
Unacceptable – Civilian coats, “Zouave” jackets, or Chasseur jackets
Trousers
Federal issue trousers, for infantry, were of sky-blue kersey wool. They were 100% wool with a visible twill weave, machine sewn with hand-sewn buttonholes. The buttons were paper-backed tin, but could be of other materials (if you think in terms of replacing buttons that have “popped” off). The trousers included a watch pocket on the right side near the waistband, and the legs had a finished cuff with a 1” cuff vent on the outside seam with a slight overlap. The trousers were made with a high waist and have a back yoke, which makes the back of the waistband about two inches higher than the front.
Acceptable - Schuylkill Arsenal, Deering, or J. T. Martin patterns
Unacceptable – Civilian trousers, or “Zouave” trousers
Hats and Caps
Slouch Hat
A civilian, black slouch hat, or the “Army” hat (without brass), was the common headgear for the western soldier. There were many styles of slouch hats during the period, and the choice of hat is an individual preference. As with the Dress hat described below, they were made of a good grade of felt so that they maintained their shape. The crowns and brims varied in size, and, generally, the preferred color was black. Little or no brass (infantry horn, regimental number, company letter) or hat cords were worn, especially as the war progressed and the men became more veteran. The company photographs of the 44th Indiana reflect their preference for this style of hat.
Dress Hat
The Dress Hat, commonly called the “Hardee” or the “Army” hat, was the Model 1858 hat, and was made entirely of black felt of a good grade. The brim was 3 inches wide and was stitched at the edge with two rows of stitches for enlisted men (for officers, the brim was bound with silk braid). The crown was 6 inches high and the black silk ribbon that went around the base of the crown (where the crown and brim met) was 5/16 inch wide. The sweatband was 2 ½ inches wide, made of leather and nearly maroon in color. Inside the hat was a label that filled the entire top of the crown.
The brim was looped up on the left side (for infantry), and when “dressed”, included the infantry bugle, regimental number and company letter on the front of the crown. A brass device representing the national seal, called an “eagle”, was used to fasten up the side of the brim to the crown. From one to three ostrich feathers were fastened to the side that was not turned up, and a light blue (for infantry) worsted hat cord with tassels completed the adornment. Although the tassels were to be worn on the side opposite the feathers, by early in the war they were worn in the front.
Forage Cap [need wording for a kepi]
These were made of lightweight, dark blue wool, with brown or black polished cotton lining and a small paper label glued to the inside on the crown. The sweatband was sewn in by hand. The visor and chinstrap were made of lightweight leather and the chinstrap was attached with small brass eagle buttons. Caps with the crescent shaped visor and a slightly smaller diameter crown are referred to today as “Type I”. “Type II” caps have a larger diameter crown and a rectangular shaped visor.
Preferred – Black slouch hat or the “Army” hat without any brass, feathers, or hat cord
Acceptable – Army hat (dressed) or Forage cap
Acceptable, but not recommended – A slouch hat in a color other than black or a Kepi.
Unacceptable - The hat blank, aka the “hillbilly hat”. The shapeless piece of felt that takes on the appearance of a doily on ones head. Non-regulation feathers or parts of dead animals. The McDowell pattern forage cap.
Shirts
Civilian Shirts were hand-sewn or machine sewn, but the buttonholes were hand-sewn. The buttons were small and made of bone, horn, china, porcelain, wood, or glass. It appears they were normally sewn on with the thread making an “x” pattern. They normally had a fall collar of 1 to 1 ½ inches wide, with three or four buttons down the front on a button placket that ran about half way down the front of the shirt. The button on the cuff tended to be set close to the sleeve side of the cuff so the cuff could be folded back while still buttoned. Many shirts were made of cotton, and most seem to be with small checks, plaid or solid, but not bright colors. Shirts were also made of wool or muslin in plain colors without a pattern.
The Federal regulation issue shirt was made of domet flannel (a wool and cotton blend). It was hand-sewn with hand-sewn buttonholes. These shirts were often cream colored or off-white. This shirt had one button at the neck and one on each cuff. There was also a gray, blue or red Federal issue contract shirt. It was hand-sewn or machine sewn, but the buttonholes were hand-sewn. This one was made of wool and was similar in style to civilian shirts.
Preferred - Any period-correct civilian shirt of the proper material, with small checks or plain
Acceptable – The Federal regulation shirt or the gray, blue or red contract shirt
Acceptable, but not recommended – The fireman’s shirt
Unacceptable – White dress shirts, with or without pleats, and white shirts in general
Socks
100% wool or cotton socks.
Acceptable – Plain wool or period socks made of cotton
Unacceptable - Hunting socks with the orange or red strip around the top
Drawers
Muslin or canton (cotton) flannel drawers. Generally, they had a wide waistband at the top, which buttoned with two tin buttons, no buttons on the fly, and a drawstring at the ankle. (They will keep the wool pants off your skin if you are bothered by that and help to keep you warm in the cooler weather.)
Preferred – Drawers as described above
Acceptable – Drawers without the drawstrings
Suspenders
Period correct suspenders were solid-colored or striped and some had an intricate design sewn into them. They were made of cotton, linen, muslin, or canvas, with one or two straight edged leather button tabs on each front end and a single tab on the back ends. Suspenders should cross in back, but should not be stitched together at the time of purchase. If you like, you may choose to hand sew them together. The suspender buckles should be of brass, tin or “japanned” (a black lacquer) steel. The “poor boy” style suspenders were also used. These are the simplest form of suspender and are folded muslin, cotton or canvas, with a couple of buttonholes hand-sewn at the ends. Although elastic was in use, most of that type sold by today’s sutlers is incorrect. Also, the clasping devises may be incorrect.
Acceptable – Any period correct style of the proper material
Unacceptable – Elastic suspenders with the clamp type adjustment
Shoes and Boots
“Brogans” is the common name for the soldiers’ shoes. They were also referred to as the Jefferson bootee. Brogans were the most comfortable and the most common footwear of the foot soldier. These were made of black leather with pegged or sewn leather soles. The sides extended a little above the ankle, and unlike earlier shoes that had a straight last, the Civil War period shoes were made to fit the right and left foot. The toe of the shoe was squared, had four pair of lace holes, and may or may not have had a fifth pair at the base of the tongue. Heel plates and/or hobnails were common and helpful in preventing excessive wear of the heels and soles.
Some soldiers chose to wear boots. Like the brogans, boots had square toes and the soles were pegged or sewn on. The period-correct styles were the Wellington or the Napoleon.
Preferred – Brogans/Jefferson bootees
Acceptable – Period correct boots
Acceptable, but not recommended – modern black shoes or boots (but only in the first year of membership)
Unacceptable – Gym shoes or sneakers
Overcoat
The overcoat, or “Greatcoat” as it was called, was a single-breasted coat made of 100% wool, which was sky blue like the trousers. The body was lined with wool flannel or burlap and the sleeves with cotton, muslin or osnaburg. The coat had a standing collar, which was fastened with hooks and eyes. A cape was sewn on at the collar and reached only to the elbow, which buttoned down the front. There were 5 medium sized eagle buttons on the coat front, 6 small eagle buttons on the cape and 2 large buttons on the belt that fastened in the back.
Vest
The vest was not issued as part of the uniform. They were made of wool, cotton, or linen. These should be of period construction, with seven to nine buttons and hand-sewn buttonholes. What is usually called the military style vest had a standing collar, while the civilian style vest had a falling collar or no collar at all. Vests were lined with cotton, polished cotton, or muslin, and the back was made of cotton or polished cotton. They had an adjustable belt in the back at or a little above the waist, with a brass, tin or “Japanned” black steel buckle. Vests were made to reach to a little below the trouser waistband and were cut straight across the bottom. All buttons were buttoned, unlike the more modern style of leaving the bottom button unfastened. There were two or three pocket, with three being more common.
Preferred – Military style
Acceptable – Civilian style
ACCOUTREMENTS
The leathers were of buff, “waxed”(flesh side out), or bridle (with the smooth side out) leather and dyed black. We suggest you do not have the maker’s and inspector’s marks stamped on your gear, as this tends to put time and place limits on your impression. On the other hand, many, many pieces of this kind of gear had stamps, and you are free to choose either way, as you like. (For safety and appearance, the scabbard must include the brass tip that is fastened to the bottom end.)
Bayonet Scabbard
The M1855 pattern scabbard, made of bridle leather with the smooth side out and dyed black, including the brass tip, was 19.5 inches long. The early war style frog was sewn and riveted with two copper rivets to a socket of black leather, which was fastened to the top of the scabbard. The scabbard had a brass tip, secured by two tacks, at the bottom. It was used for both the Springfield and Enfield bayonets. In late 1862 or early 1863, the frog was modified to include seven copper rivets and the brass tip was secured with four tacks. Except for those two refinements, the pattern remained the same. In 1864, an eighth copper rivet was added to help secure the frog to the scabbard.
For the Enfield, the scabbard included a brass throat and tip and was used with a separate frog that fit on the waist belt. The style you choose may depend on the bayonet you have. When you purchase the scabbard, make sure your bayonet fits snugly, but not too tightly in the scabbard.
Preferred – M1855 two rivet pattern scabbard
Acceptable – Enfield pattern scabbard and frog
Acceptable, but not recommended – M1855 seven rivet pattern scabbard (began use in 1863) or eight rivet
pattern (began use in 1864)
Cap Box
The cap box was made of black bridle leather with the smooth side out. It had an outer and inner flap with end pieces “ears” sewn to the edge of the inner flap, a strip of sheepskin (with wool) fastened inside the box, and a loop for the nipple pick. On the early war pattern, the two belt loops were sewn on; copper rivets were added in 1862. The US pattern of 1850 had a tapered front with the latch tab as an integral part of the outer flap. The finial for securing the outer flap was made of brass and described as acorn or pear shaped. The non-regulation “shield front” pattern was common in, at least, the first two years of the war. Similar to the pattern of 1850 except the outer flap was shaped like a shield and the latch tab was attached with a straight-line stitch (like the cartridge box). The finial was the same shape as described for the 1850 pattern.
Preferred – 1850 Pattern or Shield Front, with or without belt loop rivets
Acceptable – Enfield pattern, but only if the rest of your leather gear is Enfield pattern
Cartridge Box, Box Plate, Shoulder Belt and Belt Plate
The cartridge box was made of black bridle leather, had an outer and inner flap to protect the cartridges, and had two compartmentalized tin inserts (the tins). For safety, the box must include the two tins. An oval US plate, 3.5 inches long by 2.2 inches wide, of stamped brass with the lead filled back had two small loops secured in the lead filler so the plate could be fastened at the visual center of the outer flap. It was fastened to the flap, normally with a piece of rawhide thong. The back of the box had horizontal belt loops to accommodate the shoulder belt and vertical belt loops so that the box could be fastened on the waist belt. Two roller buckles were sewn (with a straight-line stitch) to the bottom of the box to attach the shoulder belt.
The box pattern in use prior to the Civil War was the Model 1857 (referred to in some sources as the M1855 pattern). Three characteristics of these boxes were that the latch tab was sewn on with a straight-line stitch, the vertical belt loops were stitched on, and the finial to fasten the outer flap was a round brass ball. In mid-1861, the box was modified to meet recommendations that had been made to the government. The most notable change was that the vertical belt loops were sewn and riveted on. In March 1864, there were a couple of changes made to the box. The most obvious change was the addition of a rivet on the front of the flap so that the latch tab was sewn and riveted to the outer flap. The shape of the finial was changed to what was described as a “pear” shape. (Actually, it appears that it was shaped more like an upside down ace of spades.) Also, the roller buckles were stitched (with curved stitching) and riveted to the bottom of the box. In July 1864, there was another change. The brass box plate was eliminated and the “US” was embossed on the leather in the center of the outer flap.
The Enfield box, imported from England, was almost like a cavalry carbine cartridge box in size and shape. That is, it was about the same width, but about half as high and twice as deep as the US made infantry cartridge box. There was no box plate.
Either the Pattern of 1857 box (aka Pattern of 1855), or the Pattern of 1861 for the .58 caliber, was worn by those who carried the .58 caliber Springfield or the .577 caliber Enfield. Those who carried the .69 caliber Springfield used the .69 caliber Pattern of 1857 (aka Pattern of 1855) or the .69 caliber Pattern of 1861 box.
The shoulder belt or sling for the Pattern of 1857 (aka 1855) and the Pattern of 1861 was either made of buff or “waxed” (with the rough side out) leather, dyed black, or of bridle leather (with the smooth side out), dyed black. These belts were 2.25 inches wide, 55.5 inches long and had a billet (4.25 inches long and 0.875 inch wide) at each end to fit in the buckles on the bottom of the cartridge box. It included the circular eagle breastplate, 2.5 inches in diameter, of stamped brass with the lead filled back. Like the box plate, the breastplate had small metal loops secured in the lead filler, which allowed it to be fastened on the belt at approximately the center of the individual’s chest. This plate was normally fastened with a piece of rawhide thong. The belt for the July 1864 Pattern box was 2 inches wide and no breastplate was issued with it.
The Enfield shoulder belt was about 1.5 inches wide of black bridle leather and did not include a breastplate.
Preferred – 1855/1857 or 1861 pattern box for either the .58 or .69 caliber cartridge.
Acceptable – March 1864 pattern box.
Acceptable, but not recommended – Enfield pattern box.
Unacceptable – July 1864 pattern box (primarily since it was not issued until so late in the war).
Waist Belt and Belt Plate
Black buff, “waxed”, (early war) or black bridle leather (from mid to late 1862 on), approximately 1.9 inches wide (that dimension did vary a little) with a leather loop or the brass keeper fastened at the left end. The oval US belt plate is stamped brass with lead filled back and was secured to the right end of the belt. The plate was 3.5 inches long and 2.25 inches wide. Early war plates had two studs (currently referred to as “puppy paws”) that held it to the right end of the belt. At some point during the war (mid 1862), this style was changed to the arrow head fastener design.
Preferred – Belt with the leather loop or no keeper at all; “puppy paw” fastener early war plate
Acceptable – Belt with the brass keeper; “arrow head” fastener mid-war plate
Gun Sling
This was part of the “set” of accoutrements. The US pattern was made of russet bag-leather (black leather was more common), was 1.25 inches wide and 46 inches long. There was one standing and one sliding loop. Also, there was a brass hook, fastened to one end of the sling with two brass rivets, which hooked through a series of holes to adjust the length of the sling between the sling swivels.
The Enfield pattern was made of russet bridle leather (or the rough side was dyed black) and was 48 inches long and 1.25 inches wide, with leather keepers, but without the hook, and had a thong on one end. There was one standing and one sliding loop (for tension). The leather thong at the one end of the sling was used to attach the sling to the sling swivel.
Acceptable – Either the US or Enfield pattern
Unacceptable – Modern rifle slings
OTHER EQUIPMENT
Wool Blanket
The regulation army blanket, as established in 1851, was 100% wool, gray in color, and had a three and a half inch wide black stripe woven into the material close to each end of the blanket. They were approximately 80 to 85 inches long and 57 to 68 inches wide, and weighed about 5 pounds. Some of these blankets had a “US”, in two or three parallel lines of black yarn stitches, stitched in the center and some did not. The “US” was approximately four inches long.
There was also a light brown colored blanket with dark brown stripes close to each end. It was made of lighter weight wool, but was otherwise like the regulation blanket. At times, the government also provided blankets that included shoddy (bits of blue and red material) throughout. These were a darker gray and had the black strips close to each end.
Preferred – Gray wool with black stripes or brown wool with dark brown stripes of proper dimensions
Acceptable – Any of the above-described wool blankets in varying dimensions
Unacceptable – Blankets of modern materials and colors, or wool blankets with excessive nap
Poncho/Ground Cloth/Gum Blanket/Rubber Blanket
Rubber coated cotton drill or muslin approximately 79 inches long by 45 inches wide (various sizes seem to have been issued during the war), with 9/16inch brass grommets that had a ¼ inch opening). Suggest you purchase a poncho and a ground cloth. Buy only those with the 9/16 inch brass grommets.
Preferred – Poncho or ground cloth described above
Acceptable, but not recommended – Rubberized cloth with larger size grommets, or early war oil cloth
Unacceptable – Modern or vinyl or plastic rain gear
Canteen
The Model 1858 canteen was an oblate spheroid made of two convex pieces of pressed tin, soldered together around the rim. It had a cork stopper, capped with tin and held together with an iron ring, pewter or tin spout, and three tin or steel strap keepers (one on each side a third of the way around the canteen and one at the bottom). The common patterns were the smooth side or the “bulls eye”. The bulls eye type got its name from the pattern of reinforcing rings stamped into the sides of the canteen. There was anywhere from 5 to 11 rings used to do the reinforcing. The cover was usually tan/brown wool or gray/brown jean cloth, or light or dark blue wool. The brown appears to have been very common, while light blue wool covers appear to have been fairly rare. The cork was fastened to the strap keeper by means of hemp or jute twine, or jack chain. If held by twine, there was usually no hole in the strap keeper. If the cork was attached by means of a piece of jack chain, one end of the chain was fastened through a hole in one of the strap keepers. The carrying strap was made of cotton, canvas or linen approximately an inch wide and no more than 72 inches long (normally this was shortened by the soldiers).
Leather canteen slings were common at the beginning of the war, but seem to have been replaced by cloth slings by the summer of 1862. Leather slings were russet or undyed leather with a trapezoid-shaped guard behind the buckle. The buckle was a 5/8-inch roller buckle with a leather keeper loop.
Preferred – The 1858 smoothside or “bulls eye” canteen with a cover
Acceptable - The 1858 smoothside or “bulls eye” canteen without a cover
Acceptable, but not recommended – Any pre-war period correct canteen
Unacceptable – Stainless steel or wooden canteens, and modern canteens of any style or shape
Haversack
The Federal haversack was black tarred 6 ounce cotton or drill cloth. They were approximately 12 to 14 inches tall and 10 to 12 inches wide at the bottom, with a japanned (black lacquer) roller buckle and a leather strap fastened to the upper flap. The shoulder strap is approximately 2” wide and about 40-45inches long. The inner food bag was not tarred, and was secured by three buttons (two in back and one in front. Early war haversack buttons were bone; later war buttons were paperback tin.
Preferred – The black tarred Federal haversack described above
Unacceptable – White duck or cotton haversacks or haversacks made of leather
Knapsack
There were rigid (hard pack) and non-rigid (soft pack), but the non-rigid (Model 1855) double bag was essentially the field knapsack, and was the most common. It was made of cotton or linen canvas, machine-sewn, and painted or tarred black to render it waterproof. One bag was envelope-shaped (a “V”-pocket shape) with a tie-down flap. The other bag had four overlapping flaps that buckled together. The two bags were attached at the top with a wide (about 5 inches) piece of canvas so that the two bags folded together and were fastened at the bottom by three straps and buckles. All of the buckles on the knapsack were japanned (black lacquer coated) steel and the hooks were made of brass. The shoulder straps were made of 2-inch wide leather, dyed black, with the smooth side out. One end of each of the shoulder straps was sewn to the knapsack in a variety of ways, the other end was open and had two other sets of straps fastened near this open end. On the left side, the armpit strap was buckled to the backpack thus creating a loop through which the left arm and shoulder were placed. The right side armpit strap had a triangular brass piece that hooked to the backpack, thus creating the loop for the right arm and shoulder. The other set of straps included a brass “J”-shaped hook and a series of holes for adjusting the position of the hooks. Initially, these straps were to fasten to the waste belt. Most of the time, the soldier extended these straps across his chest and hooked them to the opposite shoulder strap. On the top of the knapsack, there were two sets of two leather strips, through which blanket or greatcoat straps were fastened. It is evident from existing examples of these double bag knapsacks that there were two basic types. One is a pre-war/early war type that seemed to have been made with many variations. Beyond the above characteristics, it did have some common features. First, the open end of the shoulder strap was square. Second, the brass studs that were used to fasten the armpit and j-hook straps to the shoulder straps were left uncovered. Finally, almost a standard feature, was the use of twill cotton tape ties on the flap of the V-pocket to tie the flap closed.
In 1862, the knapsack was standardized by government contract. As well as having all the noted features described in the opening paragraph on knapsacks, the bags were slightly larger. In addition, there were other characteristics. First, the open ends of the shoulder straps were scalloped. Second, the studs used to fasten the armpit and j-hook straps to the shoulder straps were covered by a leather disk. Finally, the envelope bag flap was secured by two rawhide thongs.
Knapsacks were carried and used throughout the war, and they make a good carrying case for those inevitable (modern) items that we all must carry.
Preferred – 1855 double bag style soft pack
Acceptable, but not recommended – Hard pack with wooden frame
Mess Gear
The government did not issue mess gear, so the gear a soldier carried was provided by private means. The common fork had 3 tines (4 tines were around too, but not quite as common) with a wooden or bone handle. A good pocketknife with wood or bone panels served as an all-purpose knife. The fiddle back spoon was common. Spoons (normally teaspoon size) of silver, pewter, tin, or carved from wood. The soldier usually also carried a stout tin cup (not the small size) or coffee boiler (with or without the bail), and a tin plate or canteen half.
Preferred – The tin ware described above
Unacceptable – Enamel/granite/speckled ware or stainless steel (unless it does not look like stainless steel)
Tent
Shelter tents (called “pup” or “dog” tents) were the most common tents used by soldiers after the early part of the war. At Shiloh, the Sibley tent was still being used and was the common tent at that time. Those tents were carried in wagons, as they were too large to be carried by a soldier (no one carries one of these by himself, at least, not very far!). In the Western Theater, the dog tent came into use sometime in late 1862 to early 1863. It was called a dog tent because the soldiers felt it would only accommodate a dog. Each soldier carried a shelter half, and the tent was made by buttoning two halves together.
The early issue shelter half was composed of two or three panels of cotton drill or duck, and measured five feet two inches long by four feet eight inches wide. Each half had a single row of 23 bone buttons, set in about three inches from the edge, evenly spaced along three sides of the half and a like number of hand-sewn buttonholes, that lined up with the buttons, close to the edge of the material. At the corners of the side not arrayed with buttons and holes there were two sets of hand-sewn grommets, through which the tent stake loops were tied. In 1864, a slightly larger shelter half was made and issued. It was five feet six inches long by five feet five inches wide. The other differences were that it had tin buttons and three sets of hand-sewn grommets for the stake loops (the third set were along the same edge as the other two and half way between them. Although each soldier carried only one half, we recommend you buy both halves to ensure you have a match and a full shelter in which to stay.
Acceptable – Early or late war shelter tent
WEAPONS
Bayonet
The standard bayonet was the triangular socket bayonet and was issued along with the musket/rifle musket. They had a locking ring that slipped behind the front sight and held the bayonet in place on the end of the barrel.
The one you purchase will depend on the musket/rifle musket you have. Since there can be variations in the dimensions of the bayonet’s socket, be sure to take your weapon with you to ensure a proper fit. If the bayonet is stamped “India”, file off the word and buff it smooth.
Musket/Rifle Musket
We know that, prior to the Battle of Shiloh, the 44th Indiana carried .577 caliber Enfield weapons. The records show a predominance of Enfields, with some Springfields (model 1855 or 1861), a few Belgian and French .69 caliber weapons and one Austrian. Enfields dominate the ordinance returns, but by the 4th quarter of 1864, the regiment appears to have received Springfield rifle muskets so the count of Enfields and Springfields is about equal.
Acceptable-
M1855-1861 Springfield .58 caliber rifle musket
M1853 Enfield .577 caliber rifle musket
Unacceptable – TWO BAND WEAPONS ARE NOT ACCEPTABLE OR PERMITTED. Nor is it acceptable to use a shotgun or Hawkins rifle.
MISCELLANEOUS
Eyeglasses/Spectacles
Civil War period glasses/spectacles had oval frames, clear lenses no more than 1” across, with straight temples. In the 1840s and 1850s, glasses had small rectangular or hexagonal frames with clear lenses. The temples were straight and many times had sliding segments that made them adjustable. The ends of these had small loops shaped like small water droplets.
The flexible temples that curve around the ear were rare during the war, and became more common after the war. Nose pads are a much later invention. Modern eyeglasses are only acceptable in the first year of membership. It is preferred that they be replaced with period glasses or contact lenses as soon as possible. Modern sunglasses are never acceptable.
Acceptable – Period glasses or contact lenses
Unacceptable – Modern eye glasses (after the time frame noted previously)
Hair styles
The regulations state that “the hair is to be short; the beard to be worn at the pleasure of the individual; but, when worn, to be kept short and neatly trimmed”. Look at the pictures of the soldiers to get an idea of how they wore their hair. It is parted on the side, not the center (women parted their hair in the center), and was kept at or above the level of the ears and off the back of the neck. Muttonchops (see any picture of Gen. Burnside) were worn, but the pictures of common soldiers seem to indicate that style was not common. Side burns, as we think of them today, along the upper cheek and about the length of the ear, were almost non existent during the Civil War.
A large percentage of the soldiers were clean-shaven, but facial hair was common and almost any conventional style is accurate. Unconventional styles and unnatural colors are unacceptable.
Personal Hygiene
Bone or wood handled tooth brushes were in use and sold to soldiers, as were tooth powders (or plain baking soda) and wood, bone, horn or hard rubber combs. Lye soap was the common type used during the war.
Medications
These are your own personal business, but should be kept in period containers and used away from public view. If the condition for which the medicine is taken is serious, it is recommended that sergeants and officers of the unit be made aware of the condition, for the health and safety of the individual.
Preferred Sutler List
This list is arranged by the clothing or equipment product, and then by the sutlers who are known to be good sources for these items. The sutlers listed in bold print are the “preferred “ sutlers for the 44th Indiana, authentic, and may be the more expensive. The several sutlers listed, all of which meet our minimum standards, allow the member a range within which to purchase each specific item. Many of these sutlers attend reenactments throughout the year, but some can only be contacted via the Internet, regular mail or telephone. In cases where a particular vendor sells a particular good product, that product is listed after the vendor’s name.
UNIFORMS/CLOTHING
Sack Coat/Fatigue Blouse – Contract Fatigue Blouse (J. T. Martin or Schuylkill Arsenal are a couple of examples)
Regimental Quartermaster – J. T. Martin unlined Fatigue Blouse “The Campaigner II”
C. & D. Jarnagin – Sack Coat
C. J. Daley Historical Reproductions - Lined Contract Style Fatigue Blouse
Osgood Historical Clothiers - Contract Lined Blouse
Jersey Skillet Licker Products (retail source for several vendors including John Wedeward and Nick Sekela)
Chas. A Cantrell Uniforms – J. T. Martin lined Sack Coat
Frock Coats and Jackets
C. J. Daley Historical Reproductions - Lined Contract Style Fatigue Blouse
Jersey Skillet Licker Products
Chas. A Cantrell Uniforms
C. & D. Jarnagin
Fall Creek Suttlery
Trousers
Stony Brook – Schuylkill Arsenal pattern or Deering Contract pattern
Jersey Skillet Licker Products (retail source for several vendors including John Wedeward and Nick Sekela)
C. J. Daley Historical Reproductions - Federal Issue Trousers, Foot Pattern
Osgood Historical Clothiers - J. T. Martin Contract Trousers, Cincinnati. Depot
Fall Creek Suttlery
C. & D. Jarnagin
Slouch Hats/Civilian Hat
Clearwater Hat Co. - Slouch; Shiloh; Antietam; Gettysburg; Pork Pie; Plug
T. P. & H. Trading Co (Tim Bender) - Flat Top; Medium Crown Bowler; Flat-top Bowler, Mosby style; Porkpie; Telescope Crown
Dirty Billy’s Hats - Round Crown #C12; 1860s Pork Pie #C22; Appomatox #C23; Mosby #C4;
Dress Hat ("Hardee" or “Army” Hat)
T. P. & H. Trading Company (Tim Bender) - Hardee 1858 Dress Hat, enlisted
Dirty Billy's Hats - Enlisted Man's Hardee Hat #US8
Forage Caps
Dirty Billy’s Hats - 1862 M&G Contract #US10 (Type I); 1858 Phillips Contract #US20 (Type II)
C. J. Daley Historical Reproductions - (retail source for Joel Bohy caps) Private Wiedershiem Cap (Type I), Private Willis Cap (Type II), George Hoff Contract Cap
Orchard Hill Sutlery - Forage Hat, U.S. M1858 #U-003B (Semancik's "1858 Pattern Forage Cap")
Jersey Skillet Licker Products (various reproductions of Type I and Type II caps by Nick Sekela)
C. & D. Jarnagin
Fall Creek Suttlery
Shirt – Federal Issue
C. J. Daley Historical Reproductions - Federal Issue Contract Shirt (size 1: 36 -44" chest, size 2: 46 -48" chest) or Pattern 1851 Federal Issue Shirt (one size: 36-44" chest)
Regimental Quartermaster – Federal Issue Blue Variant Shirt (“The Campaigner II”)
Jersey Skillet Licker Products - Federal Issue Shirt (one size: 36-44" chest)
Chas. A. Cantrell - Federal Issue Shirt (one size: 36-44" chest, larger sizes available by special order)
Osgood Historical Clothiers - Federal Issue Shirt (one size: 36-44" chest, larger sizes available by special order)
C. & D. Jarnagin - Federal Issue gray Contract Shirt
Shirt – Civilian
Jersey Skillet Licker Products - Plaid Shirt
Quartermaster Shop – Stripes, checks and print shirts
C. & D. Jarnagin – Colors with pattern shirts
Fall Creek Suttlery – Cotton print shirts
Socks
Mickey Black - period machine knit cotton issue socks
C. J. Daley Historical Reproductions - period machine knit heavy weight wool issue socks; (retail source for Mickey Black socks)
Jersey Skillet Licker Products
C. & D. Jarnagin
Fall Creek Suttlery
Wal-Mart or Sporting Goods Stores
Drawers (underwear)
C. J. Daley Historical Reproductions - Ready-made Drawers
Jersey Skillet Licker Products (Federal Issue Canton Flannel Drawers by Nick Sekela)
C. & D. Jarnagin - Federal Issue Drawers
Fall Creek Suttlery
Suspenders
Jersey Skillet Licker Products (retail source for several vendors)
The Arsenal - Poor Boys; adjustable Poor Boys
Chris Graham
Fall Creek Suttlery
C. & D. Jarnagin
Shoes/Bootees and Boots
Missouri Boot & Shoe Co. - Jefferson Bootee #JB-2
Cedar Creek Supply Depot – Jefferson Bootee
Jersey Skillet Licker Products (retail source for several vendors)
M. J. N. Boot & Leather Shop - Jefferson Bootee
Mattimore Harness - Progressive Shoe or Brogan
Orchard Hill Sutlery - Brogans, "Ultimate Campaigner" #U-036 (Mattimore's "Progressive")
C. & D. Jarnagin
Fall Creek Suttlery
Overcoat/Greatcoat
Country Cloth (Charlie Childs)
C. & D. Jarnagin
Fall Creek Suttlery
C. J. Daley Historical Reproductions - Federal Issue Overcoat, Foot Pattern
Jersey Skillet Licker Products (retail source for several vendors)
Osgood Historical Clothiers - Foot Pattern Federal Greatcoat
Vest
Jersey Skillet Licker Products (Nick Sekela “Military" Style; "Civilian" shawl collar vests)
Quartermaster Shop
C. & D. Jarnagin
Fall Creek Suttlery
ACCOUTREMENTS
Bayonet Scabbard
Missouri Boot & Shoe Co. - Early War 2 rivet with bridle leather frog
C. & D. Jarnagin - 1859 US Waist Belt Scabbard - two rivet #245, with bridle leather frog
L. D. Haning & Co. – Early war 2 rivet pattern
Jersey Skillet Licker Products (Nick Sekela’s - 2 rivet pattern, unmarked)
Orchard Hill Sutlery – Hand-sewn, early war 2 rivet pattern
Fall Creek Sutlery – Either Springfield or Enfield
Cap Box
Missouri Boot & Shoe Co. - US Pattern 1850, standard style
Cedar Creek Supply Depot - M1850 or shield front patterns
C. & D. Jarnagin - 1850 cap box - mid war #HS242 or early war shield front #HS241 (both must be hand sewn)
Jersey Skillet Licker Products (Model 1850 Cap Box, unmarked by Nick Sekela)
L. D. Haning & Co. – M1850 pattern
Fall Creek Suttlery – M1850 or shield front patterns
Cartridge Box & Sling
Missouri Boot & Shoe Co. - Pattern 1861 Box, .58 cal., unmarked
Cedar Creek Supple Depot -
C. & D. Jarnagin - Unmarked 1861 Pattern Box (#WMFG204E); Early Plate (#BXP299); Bridle Leather Sling #HR260 Round Eagle Sling Plate #300
Jersey Skillet Licker Products - Model 1861 cartridge box, .58 cal., hand or partially machine stitched, unmarked
L.D. Haning & Co. - .58 cal. Box
Fall Creek Suttlery
Gun Sling
Fall Creek Suttlery
Jersey Skillet Licker – For Springfield or Enfield (Nick Sekela items)
Dell’s Leather Works – For Springfield (Item 004) or Enfield (Item 003)
C. & D. Jarnagin - For Springfield or Enfield (#2702)
Missouri Boot and Shoe Co. – For Springfield
Waist Belt & Plate
Missouri Boot & Shoe Co. - Waist belt, with standing loop; Waist belt plate with “puppy paw” back
C. & D. Jarnagin - Black Bridle Leather Belt with leather loop #271A; Puppy Foot Plate #SPB138
Jersey Skillet Licker Products (Waist belt with leather keeper and belt plate – Nick Sekela)
L.D. Haning & Co. – Waist belt with standing leather loop (leather keeper) and plate
Fall Creek Suttlery – Waist belt with brass keeper
OTHER EQUIPMENT
Poncho/Ground Cloth/Gum Blanket/Rubber Blanket
C. & D. Jarnagin - Gum Blanket #319 (request Stevens pattern) and Poncho #320
Orchard Hill Sutlery – Ground Cloth (#E-060)
Fall Creek Suttlery
Wool Blanket
Family Heirloom Weavers - Federal Blanket
Quartermaster Woolens - Abraham Thomas' blanket
County Cloth - U.S. Regulation Blanket, 1851-1872
Orchard Hill Sutlery - "Keagy-Noble" Federal Issue Blanket (Waterside Woolen Mills) #A-065
Fall Creek Suttlery – Gray or brown wool blanket
Canteen
Orchard Hill Sutlery - Canteen, "Ultimate Campaigner", smoothside #E-073 (specify gray/brown cover, smoothside, hot dipped, jute twine, no hole in strap keeper, Cincinnati contractor stamp or no stamp); Canteen Cover Kit, Federal Ultimate Campaigner #E-061 (gray-brown)
C. & D. Jarnagin – M1858 smoothside (#404), no hole in bracket; brown or gray jean or wool cover
Village Tinsmithing Works – Smoothside or Bulls eye
Jersey Skillet Licker Products – 1858 smoothside with leather canteen sling; also canteen covers and straps
Haversack
Jersey Skillet Licker Products - Federal Issue Haversack by Nick Sekela
Haversack Depot - West Point Museum model; Quartermaster Museum model
Orchard Hill Sutlery - Haversack, Tarred "Ultimate Campaigner" #E-022A
Missouri Boot & Shoe Co.
C. & D. Jarnagin – Tarred haversack (#303)
Knapsack
Missouri Boot & Shoe Co. - Double Bag Knapsack #DBKS
Jersey Skillet Licker Products - Early War Contract Double Bag
C. & D. Jarnagin – Early war pattern (#309) or late war pattern (#311)
Fall Creek Suttlery
Mess Gear
Otter Creek Tinware - Type II Dipper; Tapered Dipper; Civilian/USSC Cup
G. & P. Mercantile - U. S. Issue Cup; Civilian Cup; Small Civilian Cup
Military Furnishings - Issue Tin Cup, large or small
Village Tinsmithing Works - Military Cup; Civilian Cup
Fall Creek Suttlery – Heavy tin cup (28 oz.)
Utensils
C. J. Daley Historical Reproductions - folding pocket knife and the Combination Knife/Fork/Spoon
C. & D. Jarnagin - Fork & Knife Set # 443; Army Spoon #444; Fork, Knife and Spoon Set #444TS
Dixie Gun Works - Jack Knife #KE5909
Fall Creek Suttlery – Knives, forks, and spoons
Orchard Hill Sutlery - Eating Utensil Set, knife, fork and spoon #OT-116
Missouri Boot & Shoe Co. - Antique Fiddleback Spoons
Village Tinsmithing Works - Knife, Fork & Spoon Set
Plate/Frying Pan/ Canteen Half
Village Tinsmithing Works - Tin Plate; Pressed Dinner Plate; Sheet Steel Skillet
Orchard Hill Sutlery - Tin Canteen Half #E-072; Tin Plate, Hot Dipped #A-040A
C. & D. Jarnagin - Canteen Half #CH404, Tin Plate #424
Fall Creek Suttlery – Canteen Half
Boiler
Village Tinsmithing Works - Peach Can Boiler or regular boiler
Otter Creek Tinware – Small boiler
G. & P. Mercantile - Field Modified Tin Can
Fall Creek Suttlery – Tin boiler (not the stainless steel type)
Tent/Shelter Half
Haversack Depot - Federal Shelter Tent Half, three piece
Heywood Shelters - 1862 Model, 8 oz. drill
The Arsenal - "Early War" 3-piece Shelter Half; turned hardwood tent stakes
Osgood Historical Clothiers - Type IIa shelter half
C. & D. Jarnagin – Shelter half (#587B) (will need to cover brass grommets)
Fall Creek Suttlery – M1864 Shelter half
WEAPONS
Bayonet
Lodgewood Mfg. – M1861 Springfield bayonets
C. & D. Jarnagin - M1861 Springfield bayonets or M1853 Enfield
Orchard Hill Sutlery - M1861 Springfield bayonets
Fall Creek Suttlery
Any Sutler that carries bayonets
Musket/Rifle-Musket
Fall Creek Suttlery – Springfield (M1861) or Enfield
C. & D. Jarnagin - Springfield (M1861) or Enfield
Lodgewood Mfg. - "Authenticized" 1861 Springfield (also "authenticizes" rifle-muskets bought elsewhere);
John Zimmerman - "Authenticized" 1861 Springfield (also "authenticizes" rifle-muskets bought elsewhere)
Crescent City Sutlery - For Springfield (M1861) or Enfield
Tools
Lodgewood Manufacturing
S & S Firearms
Dixie Gun Works
Fall Creek Suttlery
Weapon Repair Parts
Lodgewood Manufacturing
S & S Firearms
Dixie Gun Works
MISCELLANEOUS
Eyeglasses/Spectacles
Re-enactment Eyewear - Mid-19th century and Civil War era frames fitted with prescription lenses
Spectacle Accoutrements - Restored mid-19th century and Civil War era frames fitted with prescription lenses
Ed Welch's Antique Vintage Eyeglasses - Original mid-19th century and Civil War spectacle frames
Many sutlers
Many antique shops
Personal Hygiene
The Arsenal – Bone handled tooth brush; hard rubber comb; hand mirror; lye soap
Orchard Hill Sutlery - Bone handled toothbrushes, tooth powder, horn combs, lye & lard soap, beeswax candles, matches
Fall Creek Suttlery – Bone or wood handled tooth brush; horn comb; tooth powder
Food/Related Items
Mechanical Baking Company - Hardtack
G. H. Bent Company - Hardtack
Village Tinsmithing Works - Hardtack cutter
Tobacco & Pipes
The Haversack - Clay pipes; briar pipes; assorted pipe and chewing tobacco
R. Ubben Pipes - Custom handmade pipes
Jewelry and Watches
Michael D. Clark - restored antique watches, possibly antique watch chains
The Jeweler's Daughter - reproduction wedding bands and Masonic rings
River Junction Trade Co. - open face wind up watch, Style #1; watch chain #2 or #3 with wreath, circular burst, Victorian dangle, or Masonic fobs (avoid obvious cowboy/shooter items); replacement "T-bars"
Jas. Townsend & Son - pocket watch #PW-750 (belt hook on end of chain will need to be replaced with a "T-bar")
SUTLER CONTACT INFORMATION
Abraham & Co. Mickey Black
22919 Brightland Dr Salisbury NC 28147
Lawrenceberg IN 47025 (704) 637-3331
(888) 575-6569 blackm@cone.com
abrahamsmerc@aol.com www.salisburyemporium.com/mickeyblacksocks.htm
www.abraham-and-company.com
The Arsenal Camp Randall Quartermaster
Newport NH 03773 www2.inxpress.net/jwedeward/
(603) 863-6262 Available only through Jersey Skillet Licker Products
(Mon. - Sat., 9am - 12pm eastern)
members.aol.com/usarsenal/home.html
Matt CaldwellChas. A. Cantrell Uniforms & Clothing
Sack Coats Unlimited368 Hurricane Drive
1870 Brattleboro Ct.Stewart, TN 37175
Kettering, OH 45440www.cantrelluniforms.com
Cedar Creek Supply Depot Evergreen Acres
Jim LammersNorth 2784 Camp Rivers
8500 Lammers RoadSheboygen Falls, WI 43085
Delton, MI 49046www.evergreenacresfarm.com
G. H. Bent Company Michael D. Clark
Milton MA 02186 Williamsburg, OH 45176
(617) 698-5945 (513) 724-3167
info@bentscookiefactory.com
www.hardtackcracker.com/hardtack.htm
Clearwater Hat Company Dirt Billy's Hats
Bob & Kay Burton Bill & Fran Wickham
1002 Clearwater Rd 7574 Middleburg Rd
Newnata AK 72680 Detour MD 21757
(870) 746-4324 (410) 775-1865
burton@mvtel.net DirtyBills@aol.com
www.clearwaterhats.com www.dirtybillyshats.com
County Cloth, Inc. Dixie Gun Works
Charlie Childs PO Box 130
13797-C Georgetown St NE Union City TN 38281
Paris OH 44669 (731) 885-0700
(330) 862-3307 www.dixiegunworks.com
www.bright.net/~crchilds/index.htm
C. J. Daley Historical Reproductions Family Heirloom Weavers
Chewsville MD 21721 Red Lion PA 17356
(301) 766-7112 (717) 246-5797
tailor@cjdaley.com pdk62@mailstation.com
www.CJDaley.com www.familyheirloomweavers.com
Nancy Eddins
Available only through Stevenson House
Fall Creek SuttleryEileen Herr
A. J. FalksCivil War Seamstress
P.O. Box 927202 Larkshall Road
Whitestown, IN 46075Indianapolis, IN 46250
G. & P. Mercantile The Haversack
2476 Canterbury Chase 112 2nd Av N
Murfreesboro TN 37128 Nashville TN 37201
(615) 895-1515 (615) 254-3338
gpimental@comcast.net TheHaversack@aol.com
www.gpmerc.com www.thehaversack.com
G. Gedney Godwin Haversack Depot
PO Box 100 Phil Cavanaugh
Valley Forge PA 19481 PO Box 311262
(610) 783-0670 (830) 620-5192
www.gggodwin.com/page17.htm philc@wireweb.net
Chris Graham Heywood Shelters
1420 E Vineyard Rd Dan Cheatum
Hayesville NC 28904 616 Bakersfield Rd
(704) 389-6126 Carbondale IL 62901
members.tripod.com/pcalloway/heywood.htm
Historic Clothiers Nick Sekela
Available only through Jersey Skillet Licker Products
Home Front The Jeweler's Daughter
Janet BalthropSusan Saum-Wicklein
1821 Nixon Dr 2 W Washington St
Boerne TX 78006 Hagerstown MD 21740
(830) 336-3847 (301) 733-6741
sjlrbal@gvtc.com jewelers@safe.quik.com
gvtc.com/~sjlrbal www.jewlersdaughter.net
C. & D. Jarnagin Company Legendary Arms, Inc.
Corinth MS 38835-1860 Californ NJ 07830
(662) 287-4977 (800) 528-2767
cjarnag@jarnaginco.com sales@legendaryarms.com
www.jarnaginco.com www.legendaryarms.com
Jersey Skillet Licker Products Lodgewood Mfg.
Fairlawn NJ 07410-3506 Whitewater WI 53190-0611
(800) 431-1862 (262) 473-5444
winger6049@aol.com lodgwd@idcnet.com
www.skilletlicker.com www.lodgewood.com
M. J. N. Boot & Leather Shop Military Furnishings
27210 468th Av 5424 Elliot Av S
Tea SD 57064 Minneapolis MN 55417
(605) 368-2922 (612) 823-4009
mjnboot@sd.value.net calirvine@aol.com
www.mjnboot.com
Mattimore Harness Missouri Boot & Shoe Co.
509 South 2nd St 951 Burr Crossing Rd
Laramie WY 82070 Neosho MO 64850
(307) 745-8460 (evenings only) (417) 451-6100
tom@civilwarboots.com MissouriBootandShoe.tripod.com
Myrtle Avenue Clothiers Historical Reproductions
Brian "Speedy" Merrick Marc Hermann & Alaina Zulli
214 Chambersburg St #1 245 Henry St
Gettysburg PA 17325 Brooklyn NY 11201
(717) 337-2722 (917) 407-9180
speedybri@superpa.net NYCPress@aol.com
Orchard Hill Sutlery The Quartermaster Shop
Dept WP 5565 Griswold Road
415 Esperance Rd Kimball, MI 48074
info@orchardhillsutlery.com
www.orchardhillsutlery.com
Osgood Historical Clothiers Quartermaster Woolens
Casey Osgood 20473 Idaho Ave.
3394 Maple Ave Lakeville MN 55044
Elmira NY 14901 (952) 469-6904
(607) 734-0080 qmwoolens@aol.com
hardtack@infoblvd.netmembers.aol.com/QMWoolens
osgoodreproductions.tripod.com/homepage.htm
Otter Creek TinwareRe-enactment Eyewear
26 Carver St1738 E Third St #346
Brandon VT 05733Williamsport PA 17701
ottertin@saver.net(570) 322-9849
www.saver.net/~ottertin/ottertin/octinw1.htmlreeyewear@aol.com
www.reenactmenteyewear.com
River Junction Trade Co.Chris Semancik
312 Main St5619 Carroll St
McGregor IA 52157Baltimore MD 21207
(563) 873-2387TrulyRural@aol.com
folks@riverjunction.comwww.geocities.com/trulyrural1/cap.html
www.riverjunction.com
Greg Starbuck T. P. & H. Trading Company
cwkepi@earthlink.net Tim Bender
home.earthlink.net/~cwkepi/index.html 121 Carriage Dr
Available only through Jersey Skillet Licker ProductsBirdsboro PA 19508
Spectacle AccoutrementsTart, Brantley & Benjamin
2918 N Rolling Rd1451 Old Goldsboro Rd
Baltimore MD 21244Newton Grove NC 28366
(410) 281-6069(910) 594-1332
cwspecs@aol.comMordantman@aol.com
ivydiv_mp.tripod.com/spectacleaccoutrementswww.BenTart.com
Stevenson House - Antiques and ReproductionsStony Brook Company
Suzanne Carter IsaacsonChris Sullivan
156 High St169 West Fifth Street
PO Box 1171Oswego, NY 13126-2505
Harper's Ferry WV 25425www.
(304) 535-2625
TheStevensonHouse@yahoo.com
www.TheStevensonHouse.com
Jas. Townsend and SonR. Ubben Pipes
Jonathan TownsendRandy Ubben
Pierceton IN 46562New Milford CT 06776
(574) 594-5852woodreb@earthlink.net
jastown@jastown.comwww.rubbenpipes.com
www.jastown.com
Village Tinsmithing WorksWaterside Woolen Mills
Bill & Judy HooverTodd Detwiler
PO Box 5392526 Waterside Dr
Hamptonville NC 27020Woodbury PA 16695
(336) 468-1190(814) 766-3820
www.csa-dixie.com/villagetinsmithinfo@watersidewoolens.com
W., W. & CompanyThe Watch Dog
Dan WambaughP.O. Box 1675
(517) 644-2991 (3pm - 9pm)Warren, MI 48090-1675
dwambaugh@wwandcompany.net
www.wwandcompany.net
Ed Welch's Antique Vintage EyeglassesJohn Zimmerman, Gunsmith
Augusta Rd (304) 535-2558
Winslow ME Harpers Ferry WV 25425
(207) 872-5849 www.edsmart.com/jz
edwelch@metiques.com
www.metiques.com/catalog/glasses.html
